iJ^-fty THE TAILORS' 

COMPLETE AND SCIENTIFIC GUIDE: 



BEING A MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLE FOR 



DRAUGHTING AND CUTTING GARMENTS 



TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM. 



BY 



FRAJ^CIS H. TAYLOR. 



ILLUSTRATED BY THEOREMS, DIAGRAMS, AND EXAMPLES, 



CHICAGO: 

B . P. ROUNDS, PRINTER, 40 STATE STREET 

1863. 



... 



THE TAILORS' 



OMPLETE AND SCIENTIFIC GUIDE: 



BEING A MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLE FOR 



DRAUGHTING AiND CUTTING GARMENTS 



TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM. 



BY 



FEANCIS H. TAYLOE, 



^USTRATED M THEOREMS, DIAGRAMS, AxND EXAMPLES. 



CHICAGO: 

S. P. ROUNDS, PRINTER, 46 STATE STREET 




1863. 



Y. 



\ 



<< v 



K 



Entered according to an .Act of Congress in the year 1863, 

By FRANCIS H. TAYLOR, 

in the Clerk's office of the District Court, for Northern District of Illinois. 



2-6 







INTRODUCTION. 



[The following introduction is copied from the first edition of my work, 
published in New York, in 1843 :] 

Gents : — Without a hope or possibility of deceiving you in the premises, 
and with perfect confidence and conviction of its truth, I present for 
your consideration and examination, "A Mathematical Principle for 
Draughting and Cutting Garments to fit the Human Form," and so- 
licit your most critical and rigid scrutiny into its pretensions, merits and 
utility. I know, and in truth no one can be ignorant of the fact, that your 
patience has been exercised by the frequent and often audacious intrusion 
of "New Systems," " Improved Rules," &c. ; and if the one now present- 
ed could be classed with them, I should conceive it an insult to your judg- 
ment and experience to ask an investigation into its principles ; but I flatter 
myself that I shall be able to demonstrate and convince you that such is not 
the character of this work. Indeed, so far from being based on doubtful or 
speculative theories, I hold myself responsible to prove that it rests on the 
same foundation as do all geometrical propositions, and is draughted by the 
application of the same mathematical rules as are used in plain, spherical 
and trigonometrical surveying. 

Geometry deals in realities — rests on admitted principles, and its process 
of investigation is the test of philosophical truth, therefore it would evi- 
dently be most disastrous to my interests, to lavish time and money upon a 
system of "doubtful disputation;" hence it was my first object, after the 
discovery of the application of these principles, to arrive at the fact of its 
being so. With this view I submitted the same to the examination 
of a celebrated mathematician, in connection with four surveyors, two 
of whom were in the surveying department of Government, who, after giv- 
ing it a careful, and, as I believe, an impartial investigation, unanimously 
pronounced it true in its principles, and simple in its application ; which 
decision was announced in one of the public journals. In addition to this 
testimony, the authorities of the Patent Office, after examination, decided 
that the principles of this work were purely Mathematical — founded on 
G-eometry. 

To this I might append that of the most distinguished Master Tailors of 
the City of New York, who after giving it a practical trial of weeks and 



ifcLi 



months, have attested their belief of its truth and applicability ; but it seems 
quite unnecessary here, as I do not solicit or expect any person to decide on 
the truth or merits of this discovery by the evidence of others, but solely 
on their own conviction, after a full explanation on my part, and a minute 
examination on theirs. 

Without intending or wishing to give offense to the author of any system 
of cutting, I would here remark, that in the prosecution of this science, I 
use no division of measure or protractors, where one form is produced by 
and from a similar one: I use no circuitous measurement, where its direc- 
tion from intermediate points would come in contact with any object, (say 
the arm) where friction must necessarily produce false distances, as well as 
infringe on one of the most essential principles in mechanical philosophy. 
Neither do I ask the assistance of shoulder straps, with studs, buckles, &c, 
or a complication of all or any of these assumed means of arriving at the 
form to be fitted ; but I at once obtain the shape and position by taking the 
contour or outline of the same, and to this form, without reference to any 
other, I apply certain and infallible principles for ascertaining its true sur- 
face. On this subject an author of a system of cutting, has truly remarked 
that "human forms, like the features of the human face, are as various, 
almost, as they are in number;" and it seems as impossible to trace by 
meandering measurement the human form, as it would be to describe the 
expression of the countenance by the same means. 

In this view, it is obvious that the authors of imperfect systems have not 
assumed the true principles of science in their works or exemplifications— 
that they have marked out no certain path to perfection, because they have 
given no evidence whatever, that they have made the discovery, of the gen- 
eral law into which leads induction, and consequently, that the progress of 
their followers is errative and uncertain; for unless a man possess the intu- 
itive perception of the truths of science, or receive it by a course of instruc- 
tion founded on true principles, a morbid ignorance and hesitating uncertain- 
ty will embarrass all his thoughts, or a precipitate, unwarranted assurance 
will mark his course through life. 

With these remarks, I am, gentlemen, yours, &c, 

at xr ,0,0 THE AUTHOR. 

New York, 1848. 



A MATHEMATICAL PRINCIPLE 



FOR 



DRAUGHTING AND CUTTING GARMENTS 



TO 



FTT THE HITMAN FORM: 

BY FRANCIS H. TAYLOR. 



The principles of which are based upon the measurement or survey of all 
lines which can be the object of measurement, viz : horizontal lines, vertical 
lines, and oblique lines and all angles, to-wit : horizontal angles, vertical 
angles, which comprise angles of elevation and depression, and oblique an- 
gles ; and on curves and calculation of unknown and required parts, and 
upon the general principles of surveying bodies and forms, both plain and 
spherical, as set forth in the works of Davies, Guthrie, and others, and 
applied as follows : 

1st. By ascertaining the area or content of all or any portion of the 
human form. 

2nd. By ascertaining the length and direction of the bounding and trans- 
verse lines. 

3d. The accurate delineation of the whole or any part thereof, on any 
material that may be used in the prosecution of said discovery. 

Sec. 1. In taking by survey or measurement the outlines of the human 
form, or so much thereof as is to be fitted, either dressed, partly dressed, or 
undressed, by longitudinal lines on the outside of the form, either by enca- 
sing or enclosing the body in any manner, and in any material, as the means 
of arriving at the outlines of the form, or by transparencies of any descrip- 
tion, or by placing the form or the shadow thereof against any substance 
by which said form can be traced in outline; or by plumb lines, rods, plane 
surfaces, perpendicular and at right angles with, or parallel with the plane 
on which the form required to be surveyed or measured is placed. 

Sec. 2. To which end, (of obtaining the outline of the human form,) I 
place the person's back against any substance or material on which the form 
can be traced, and strike the outline of the whole body, or so much thereof 



6 

as is to be fitted, upon said substance or material, (see plate 1, fig. 1 ;) or I 
place the person against a transparent substance or material, and by a light 
acquired or placed in front of said person, I throw his shadow upon said 
substance, and trace the outline of the form from the shadow thereof : or I 
place the person in a horizontal or perpendicular position, and measure hori- 
zontally and perpendicularly the distances between all necessary points for 
fitting garments, as shown and signified by stars,* thus in plate 1, fig. 1. Or 
I encase or enclose the body in any manner or material by which I may ob- 
tain said outlines of body, or necessary points or parts thereof, as shown by 
stars as aforesaid. This done, I place the side of the person against any 
substance, material, or transparency, or I enclose or encase the person, and 
trace a side view in the same manner as aforesaid, and shown in plate 1, 

fig. 1. 

Sec. 3. The outlines or necessary points of form thus obtained upon any 

substance or material, the same is placed upon a table, and longitudinal and 

latitudinal lines are drawn thereon, as shown in plate 1, fig. 1, and in fig. 2, 

Sec. 4. The longitudinal lines C, on the back view or outline, are as fol- 
lows : — 

1st. Longitudinally on outside of arm. 

2d. do through the arm pit. 

3d. do from side of the neck where it joins the body. 

4th. do through the centre of the body. 

5th. do from side of the neck on reverse side of the bod}^. 

6th. do through the arm pit on reverse side of the body. 

7th. do outside of the arm on reverse side of the body. 

Sec. 5. The longitudinal lines C, on the "side view," or outline, are as 

follows : — 

1st. Longitudinally, passing down extreme front of body. 

2d. do from collar bone in front of the neck. 

3d. do from back of the neck where it joins the body. 

4th. do passing down the extreme back of the body. 

Sec. 6. Latitudinal lines B, are next drawn on the " back view," or out- 
line, as follows, plate 1, fig. 1 and fig. 2. 

1st. Latitudinally across the point where the neck joins the body. 

2d. do across the point of the shoulder where it intersects C, 

line 2. 

3d. do across, under the arm where it intersects C line 2 in 

the armpit. 

4th. do across the waist over the hips. N. B. The latitudi- 

nal lines drawn on the "back view," are extended across the "side view," 
and intersect the longitudinal lines thereon, as shown in fig. 2. 

Sec. 7. The scye or arm hole is formed next, as follows : A square is 
formed on "side view " fig. 3, two sides of which square are composed of 
latitudinal lines B 2 and B 3 on "side view " fig 2 ; latitudinal line B 2 
passing over the top of the arm, and latitudinal line B 3 passing under the 



arm. An equal distance between these two lines is taken by the dividers, 

one leg of which is placed upon the outline of back of "side view" A, in 

the centre between B lines 2 and 3, and the other leg of dividers is carried 

across parallel to this centre A to C, where draw a line D which forms a 

square, in which square describe a circle, which circle forms the scye, or 

arm hole. 

Sec. 8. The gorge or curve of the neck is next formed, as follows : A 

square E, F, G, H, fig. 3 and 12 is formed on the " side view," having for 
its base a line drawn obliquely with the curve of the neck i. j. in which des- 
cribe a circle, and that part or segment which falls upon the curve of the 
neck, forms the gorge r. r. fig. 3. A quadrant of this circle is described 
on the top of the half of "back view," T, U, V, fig. 3, by placing one leg 
of the dividers on c, line 4, half the distance of the circle of the scye from 
the top of the back on said line c 4, and with the other leg strike the 

quadrant. 

Sec. 9. The "back " and " side views " are now cut out by the outlines 

and notched V, as shown K, L, M, N, 0, P, Q, fig. 3. Required lengths 
are next obtained by throwing curves upon straight lines. Proceeding to 
get lengths upwards from B, line 3, the notch 0, fig. 4, is placed on B, line 3. 
where it intersects c, line 1, and is turned upwards on c, line 1, until it ar- 
rives at the top or front of the gorge of forepart, which is marked R, fig. 4. 
Next take the pattern of the back and place notch Q on line 4, where it in- 
tersects B, line 3, and turn it upwards on the curve of the side seam of 
forepart until it arrives at its top, and as much as said back pattern falls 
short of reaching B, line 1, so much must be added thereunto, as shown by 

dotted line s s, fig. 5. 

Sec. 10. The forepart and back patterns are next placed in their original 

positions upon the longitudinal and latitudinal lines, and from the notches 
P, where lines c 4 and B 3 intersect, the back and forepart patterns arc 
turned downwards until the bottom of patterns strike line B 4, and as much 
as they overrun said line, so much they are to be shortened, see W. W., 
fig. 6. Next place notch Q on back pattern at the intersection of lines c 4 
and B 3, and turn it downwards on the curve of side seam of forepart, and 
as much as it falls short of reaching line B 4, so much must be added there- 
unto. . See dotted line x, fig. 7. 

Sec. 11. The fit of the back and forepart pattern being now perfected, 

the patterns are placed on their original outlines, and a gentle curve is giv- 
en from the lower part of the shoulder Y, 8, to the front of the circle of the 
scye Z. The difference between a square and a spherical body is now ad- 
ded to the forepart f. f. from the dotted or outlines of the same. 

Sec. 12. The skirt of the coat is next formed, by a line h, fig. 3, 4, and 
placing notches J J upon the intersection of c, line 4, and B, line 7, fig. 9 
and turning the skirt and back skirt of coat upwards on line c 4, until the 

top thereof arrives at B, line 4, and as much as the curves of said skirts 
overrun this line, so much must be taken off. See a, a, fig. 9. 






Sec. 13. The sleeve is next formed on the circle of the scye, lines B 2, and 
B 3, forming the upper and lower sides of the square E, F, G, H, within 
which the circle of the scye or sleeve-head is described ; which being divided 
into quarters at right angles with the rectangles of the square produces the 
ground-work for forming the sleeve-head. The diameter line a, a, is extend- 
ed, and one leg of the dividers is placed at the intersection where the radi- 
us h, fig. 11, bisects the arch of the circle, and carrying the other leg upon 
the opposite side of the diameter, strike the segment c, c, which segment 
forms the top part of sleeve-head. Continue the perpendicular line b down 
to the elbow, which it will intersect ; the elbow and sleeve hand are formed 
by describing fig. 13. The under part of the sleeve-head is formed on the 
same circle of the scye, but the arm, when the outlines were taken, was in 
a horizontal position, and the length of the under side of the sleeve was 
consequently lengthened from the pivot or lower part of the arm to the elbow, 
equal to one-half of the radius of the scye ; hence place one leg of the di- 
viders at the point * above the circle equal to one-half of the radius of the 
circle, and move the other leg downwards equal to the diameter of the circle 
and strike the segment f, f, which forms the under sleeve-head ; then draw 
lines g, g, and the sleeve is complete. 

Sec. 14. The pantaloons are drafted from the outline of the form, and by 
the same rules as sleeves and other spherical bodies, (see fig. 11 and 13.) 
The stride of curve of the crotch or junction of the legs to the body, is 
formed by describing a quadrant equal in size to the segment of the circle 
A E, upon the diameter line A F ; the lines f t are formed by the lines t h, 

fig. 15. 

Sec. 15. The example, or fig. 16, showing the principles by which the un- 
der part of the sleeve-head is formed, is laid down on the mathematical 
principles of obtaining heights and distances. A is the pivot of the arm ; 
B is where the under part of the sleeve joins the fore part ; and C is the 
elbow ; D is a sweep from the pivot A ; and E is a sweep from B, and the 
distance between the lines E D, is the necessary addition required on the 
under part of the sleeve or dotted line in the various elevations F to G of 

the arm. 

Sec. 16. A circle is a plain figure described by a right line moving about 
a fixed point, as A C about C, fig. 10. A circle within a square, E, F, G, 
H, fig. 12, is described by placing one leg of the dividers on the intersec- 
tion C of lines passing from the angles of a square. Fig. 13 is described 
by dividing a circle into four equal parts, and placing one leg of the dividers 
on the arch A, where it intersects radius 2E, and striking with the other 
leg, from the arch opposite, the segments B B. 



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INTRODUCTION TO THE TRADE. 

In introducing to the trade the following system of cutting, I need not 
follow the principle adopted by a rival and the confiscator of my system ; 
make known the place of my nativity, or whether I was the recipient of a 
common schoolastic education, or graduated with all the honors of Harvard 
University. Permit me simply to state that I am a practical tailor and 
the acknowledged author of the within work, and if it possess any merit 
worthy of the trade, I solicit only the trades acknowledgment for the same. 
I would not have made mention of the abDve, had not J. B. West, in the first 
edition of his work, called attention to the fact that he had been educated 
for a profession — an unknown question for futurity to solve. In his sec- 
ond issue he states that at an early age he was apprenticed to a " knight of 
of the shears," from whose apparent high, qualified attainments, the young 
man of extraordinary geometrical and anatomical qualifications, finally ar- 
rive at the conclusion that Webster, No. 2, had been born. He therefore 
conceived the awful idea of being the author of a work, no doubt finding 
intellect scarce, and yet being determined to rank among authors, he unfor- 
tunately happened to see my system of cutting, which he appropriated to 
his own use. I therefore assume the privilege of quoting from his work such 
pages as may seem interesting to the trade. 

Practical cutters and tailors will readily admit the correctness of the fol- 
lowing quotations from West's edition, published in 1862, page 4. Systems 
were like snap watches, they were made to sell, and if they sold they were 
good enough. They were easily made ; almost any one could make them. 
If a man could have found ready sale for them, he ought to have done 
well making them for two shillings each. They run sometimes on division 
systems, but that got played-out. It was only a sum in simple division and 
almost any school boy could understand that. 

Then some enterprising fellow found out that a tape string coull be 



10 

drawn around the human body in almost any direction. He was the fathei 
of all inventions ; he called that actual measurement. Then another man 
found out that a strap could be buckled around the body, under the arms, 
with a button in front of the scye, and that a tape measure would reach 
from the button to almost any part of the body. He made a wonderful dis- 
covery. One man discovered that he could take a measure from the front 
of the scye to the centre of the back, and another made the wonderful dis- 
covery that he could measure from the centre of the back to the front of th( 
scye. That was one of the greatest discoveries in the world. Another 
discovered that he could measure from the center of the back around th< 
shoulder and back to the place he started from. He was the only man then 
living." Same page, West says : 

" In a few years inventors of tailor's measures had almost all disappeared 
The one hundred and fifty-two patent systems were turned loose to the mer- 
cies of the people. If a man wanted to pay for the privilege of drawing 
tape-string around the body in any direction, he could not find the patentee 
without considerable trouble. In the mean time, the American people ex 
celled all nations on the globe for useful improvements, but where was th( 
man that had made any improvements on tailor's measures. " Echo answer* 
where?" Now that echo rebounds and answers the questions, where tha 
man could be found at the time when West alleges he was laboring to com- 
plete his rule. 

The fact is, my system of geometrical cutting has been known anc 
practiced by many of the most scientific cutters in the United States, since 
1843, and for the past twenty years I have been engaged, whenever required 
teaching the rule in the city of Chicago. 

In the former edition of my Work, I made mention of the fact that the 
same principle as applied to obtain the outlines of the human body appliec 
equally towards the drafting of a ship, or any other branch of mechanism 
But Mr. West, in his book, refers to having been convinced of the correct 
ness of his system by its application to the solar system. From my limitec 
knowledge of the solar system, I am at a loss to know what applicatioi 
could be made of the sun, moon, stars or motions of the earth, towards thi 
fitting of the human form. 

In conclusion permit me to solicit from the trade a careful examination o 
the within pages. Cast aside all prejudice in favor of other systems unti 
you have given this an unprejudiced examination. The author feels assure( 
that this system admits of no improvement ; it being based upon mathemat 
ical principles which never err. 

THE AUTHOR. 



11 

Annexed is a copy of the published correspondence between the author 
<nd West. 

Chicago, March 21, 1868. 
Editors Times — Gentlemen : — 

"In your issue of the 19th inst. I inserted a notice addressed to J. B. 
Vest, whose system of cutting is the same, in all material points, as I have 
een teaching since 1843. In that notice I requested Mr. West to compare 
ules before a committee of tailors. He has failed to comply with my re- 
uest, and I, therefore, publish the following correspondence, also, the cer- 
ficate of an old and experienced cutter in this city, who happened to be 
resent at the conversation between Capt. Lynch, my attorney, and Mr. West. 

CERTIFICATE. 

This is to certify that having called in at Mr. Tittsworth's store, Friday 
fternoon, I accidentally heard a parley between Mr. West and Mr. Taylor's 
ttorney, Mi*. Lynch. Mr. Lynch's object was, I ascertained, to request 
Ir. West to meet Mr. Taylor to test the material points of difference in 
leir rules. The attorney, at the same time, said he was authorized by Mr. 
'aylor, to invite him to appear before a committee of cutters appointed by 
le tailors society, to test the variance between the two rules. He also sta- 

d that in case Mr. West was the author of the rule which he was now 
saching in this city, that he, Mr. T., would pay Mr. West one hundred dol- 
irs, provided, he was the first originator of the rule, and in case he, Mr. 
(Test, failed to do so, that he, Mr. West should pay to Mr. T., the one hun- 
red dollars, which should be appropriated to the benefit of the indigent 
idows and orphans of deceased tailors. 

I hereby certify the above to be correct in every particular. 

H. PRICE GRAVES. 



B. West, Esq. — 

Sib: — I caused to be inserted in the Chicago Daily Times, of the 19th 
ist., a notice for your benefit. In that communication I stated that the 
ystemof cutting which you represent yourself to be the author of, combines 
il the material points contained in my system, and which I have been 
aching ever since 1843. If you, without a knowledge of my rule, framed 
our present system, it is so much the more creditable to yourself. If, how- 
ver, you were governed by mine, I should think it your duty, at least, to 
knowledge the same. I should, indeed, be pleased to meet you before a 
ommittee to-be selected by cutters or tailors of Chicago, so that a compar- 
on of rules may be made. 

Respectfully, 

F, H. TAYLOR, 
257 Madison Street, Chicago. 



j&'- 



Mr. West having been visited by my attorney, also having received a let- 
ter from me, has, up to this time, failed to meet me or acknowledge my for- 
mer communications. I therefore renew my challenge, and unless accepted 
by Mr. West, will publish him throughout the country as an imposter. 

F. H. TAYLOR, 
257 Madison Street, Chicago. 

To the president of the journeymen tailor's society, Chicago : 

Sir : — Enclosed I forward you a copy of the correspondence addressed 
to J. B. West, with reference to the system of cutting which he is now 
teaching in Chicago. You will confer a favor by introducing the matter to 
your society, and in case I fail to establish my claim to the authorship of 
the Geometrical System of Cutting, I will, provided Mr. West will assent 
to a comparison of rules, forfeit to your society for the benefit of indi- 
gent widows and orphans of deceased tailors, the sum of one hundred dol- 
lars. Mr. West, in case of failure on his part, to do likewise. 

Provided the society are so disposed, I am willing, at any time, to appear 
and demonstrate my system. 

Respectfully your ob't servant, &c, 

F. H. TAYLOR, 
Garden City House, No. 257 Madison Street, Chicago. 



DIRECTIONS FOR COAT MEASURING. 

For ascertaining the outlines of the body, 

1. Place the square on the neck, (back view ;) the height wanted ; the 
two short arms, resting on the shoulders, and measure diameter, as exam- 
pled on plate 1, fig. 1. 

2d. Place the two short arms of the square underneath the arms, your 
customer placing his hands upon his hips until you have the square properly 
fixed, then he dropping his arms, you take the measure as seen in plate 1, 
fig- 2. 

3d. Move the square down to waist ; press the same to hips, and measure, 
See plate 1, fig. 3. 

4th. Next place the short arm on the mark across the back, over shoulder 
blade, the sliding arm in front, and measure. See plate 1, fig. 4. 

5th. Turn the square over the shoulder, one short arm resting on top, the 
the other underneath the arm, the square turned upwards. See plate 1, fig. 5. 

6th. Finally, place the square, the small arms drawn together. Take 
the square between the thumb and finger of right hand, two and one-half 
inches from the angle, and place the square on the point where the i eck 
measure was taken, letting the square hang perpendicular, touching at the 
shoulder blade. First note the falling in at top, then call off the number 
where the line B, across the back ? intersects the square, continue down to 



13 



the mark at waist, and call off figure. Now place your right hand in hol- 
low of the back, at waist, pressing full against the body, turning your fin- 
gers upwards till they touch the square. See plate 1, fig. 6. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING A COAT. 

Place the square within four inches of the top of cloth, draw B, line 1, 
across top. Also draw from B line 1, down to B line 4, mark at top, on B, 
line 1, the half-width of back, say two and one-half inches ; move the square 
down to B line 3, draw line across, and mark one-half width of shoulder 
blade, say six inches, move the square down to B, line 4, the natural length 
of the waist, say sixteen inches, draw a line across, and mark one-half width 
of back, say five inches, next remove the square to B, line 1, the small 
arm extending towards front of breast, the square passing through shoulder 
blade, measure on B, line 3, the square extending to B, line 4 ; draw a 
straight line from B, line 1, to B, line 4. This line is known as C, 
line 4. Before removing the square mark the falling in of top back, say 
two and a-half inches, place the square, the vortex resting upon the mark 
for falling in at top-back, the small arm of the square extending towards 
front of breast, the square passing through the junction of 0, line 4, with 

B, line 3 ; draw a line from falling in at back top, down to the junction of 

C, line 4, with B, line 3 ; also, draw a line across the small arm of the 
square, to front of breast, which line is marked C, line 5. Measure upon 
C, line 5, the size of the neck, which will be one-half an inch less than the 
whole top of back measure, say four and one-half inches. Next place your 
fingers upon the square at the junction of C, line 4, with the line drawn in 
at top neck, which junction is known as letter A, then bring the square to 
back seam, at B, line 3, ascertain the difference between the above described 
line, and the measure from B, line 3, to back top, adding the difference 
to the top of back. Also, add a seam to the same. Next remove the 
square across B, line 3, over to C, line 4, and measure upward upon C, line 
4, the diameter of the arm, say five and a-half inches ; draw a line across 
the top, next divide the diameter upon C, line 4, into two equal parts, move 
the square to the half-diamter of the arm, and mark across; move the 
square forward to the angle line in front, and from thence mark the diame. 
tar of the arm ; divide the diameter into two equal parts, place the square 
upon the centre of diameter and draw a line down to B, line 3 ; next bring 
down the square, placing the vortex at the junction of C, line 4, with B, 
line 3, and mark diameter of the breast, say nine and one-half inches. Fi- 
nally, bring the square down to B, line 4, at its junction with C, line 4, and 
mark upon B, line 3, from said junction, the falling in at waist. 



14 

1st. To ascertain the difference between the round of the body and the 
square of the same. Measure the distance from the angle of the square to 
the body, noting down where the square comes in contact with both arms of 
the same ; take off one-half inch say on fore part, also, on back upon B, 
line 3, both measures to be taken off from C, line 4. Deduct also, one 
inch from back and forepart at waist. 

Having formed the exact shape of body you proceed to 



DRAFT THE COAT. 

Mark on line C, 1, from top of back, the length of waist, say twenty 
inches, mark the width of back you require on B, line 2 J, which is centre 
of scye, mark above and below the width of back scye required, then shape 
back according to fashion or fancy. Cast a sweep from b to c by a ; cast 
a sweep from d to e, by a ; cast a sweep from f to g, by a ; measure the 
distance from d to h, and mark the same from e to i ; draw a line from c to 
i, from k is half the distance between c and i ; add a seam forward at k ; 
mark one inch forward at i to P, to form gorge. One inch also, above c. 
Having formed your fashionable back from your natural shape, you cast a 
sweep from m to o, by n, you then ascertain the distance from n to m, and 
mark the same from p to r. Cast a sweep from r to s, by p. You then as- 
certain the distance from m to o, and mark the same from r to s, on sweep. 
You now form your shoulder seam, allowing a seam at gorge p. For falling in 
at waist on line B, 4, take off from z to v, and from u to w, the difference be- 
tween a round and square body, say one inch, get the distance from v to w, 
and mark the same from x to y, on B, line 4. Adopt the same principle at 
junction of line B 3, and line c, 4 ; from bottom of back scye, mark forward 
one-fourth inch, on the same principle, you now form the shape of your 
side seam. Sweep for the length of your side seam, from a a to b b ; form 
your scye as represented in draft; place your back in a closing position, and 
mark from back seam at line B, 3, to front of breast, c c, two and a-half in- 
ches more than breast measures. Finish as represented in diagram No. 2, 
plate 4. 



SLEEVE. 

Draw line A, square line B, by A, mark down 1J inches at C, from C to 
D ; length to elbow less width of back ; continue measure to E, length of 
sleeve ; sweep from C to F, by D, from C to F, diameter of arm, one-third 
added. Draw line from C to F, mark at G, one-half distance from C. Draw 
line from D to G ; from G to H, is half the distance of arm. Next describe 
a circle by G through H and L. Cast a sweep for sleeve-head, from C to 
F, by H, through L. Draw a parallel to line A, from F to K, and finish as 
represented on plate No. 3. 



15 
VEST. 

The vest is drafted same as coat, with exception of one inch less than the 
diameter of the neck, (back view ;) at two inches at top of back, on line C, 
1, and two inches on line C 4, and add to front of breast 2 inches. At waist 
take out two inches less than for coat. 



DIRECTIONS FOR PANTALOON MEASURING. 

First place the top arm of the square in the crotch and measure upwards 
to the highth required, say eleven inches ; before removing the square, note 
where it comes in contact with the body, say four inches. Next place the 
square on said mark and measure diameter from hip to hip, say thirteen in- 
ches. Then place the top arm of the square on same mark, and measure 
diameter from front to rear, say nine and a-half inches. Now measure leg 
where it joins with the body, say six inches. Place the small arm of square 
full up in crotch, the long arm downwards, and move the sliding arm of the 
square to the floor, and note where the top strikes the figure on the fixed 
arm of the square. 



FOR DRAFTING PANTALOONS. 

UPPER SIDES. 

Mark from to B, the highth of pants from crotch ; from B to A, one- 
fourth the diameter of the thigh ; from A to D, the diameter of the leg ; C 
is half the diamter ; mark from C to J, the length of leg. From edge of 
cloth to K, is the size you want the top side of your pants at instep ; at J, 
is half the measure across. Draw a line from J, through C, to top of pants; 
square C to B, and C to F, by centre line, C to I, and C to G, is the same 
as c to a, and c to D ; cast a circle by c through G, D, I and A, square line 
up from a to H. D to H, is the highth of pants, H to 0, is fourth of waist, 
D to H, is largest part of hips, six inches up ; cast a sweep by G, from I to 
E, and I to F. 

TJlVDEIEfc SIDES. 

First measure from 2 to 3, at instep, the size required at bottom ; get 
half the distance from 2 to 3, at 4 ; place the centre line of the upper parts 
three-fourths of an inch forward of 4, B to 5 is one inch more or less, accor- 



Diagrams 



J'late Ml. 




N? 16. 



wth the Sliding Square. 



IliUe.NPZ. 






NPS. 




N?6. 



Lth ■ Edw. Mmdel Chic&fo. 




N?1. 




N°4. 



FUn of tiAhid the Shape wj t h the Sliding Squ.ne. 




NPS. 





N?3. 




N?6. 



iiait.mx.. 






Plat* AT? 3 



c. 

5. 



Transfa of [Louits tahav by 
nhULSureHLauy to ascertain/ the 
otitliaes x)r solid of th& body 
thus throwing tltPy same> uvLo 
a square. 




c. 

"tJB.J. 



Back Vieur. 



B.2. 



J B. 4. 



Diaffratiis 



Tmiisftr of p_ouits taken by 

measurements to ascertain the 

outlines x>r so tut of die body 

thus throwing the same into 

a square. 




riaU,N?3 



Back View. 



Dictgrcuw 



Ilate, 





014 082 919 5 4 



dK 



/ / 



